Výsledky vyhledávání

The starting commotion of motivated dogs longing for a order that will release that pile of hormones. Short look at the opponent and then just full steam ahead... A mass start is a very attractive for spectator and the easiest way for the organizers to start all the competitors at once. It doesn't have to be such a chart for racers and especially for their dogs. Content: What is mass start? Jak vypadají tuzemské hromadné starty? Proč by se měla dodržovat pravidla hromadného startu? Pravidla pro hromadný start (závodník) Jak dnešní hromadné starty vypadají? Jak natrénovat hromadný start? Jak by měl hromadný start vypadat? The purpose of the article is not to address specific situations that have flown through the Internet. The reason is to point out the possible risks of a mass start, which is incorrectly prepared. What is a mass start? Definition according to IFSS (International Federation of Sleddog Sports racing rules) All participants in the same class start at the same starting line at the same time. If not everyone fits the line, the racing marshal (judge) will set more starting lines. The starting area must have one starting track for each team. The spacing between the tracks should be approximately 2 meters. The length of the starting tracks should be approximately 80 meters and end at the marked line. There must be at least 10 meters between each starting line, the distance must be adapted to the size of the teams. For a better imagination I enclose the visualization. A total of 15 teams will start in 3 rows of 5 teams. It is clear from the previous text that almost no race organizer respects or may not even know the rules of this start. This does not mean that they do it wrong, they only place greater demands on the dog's readiness. What do mass starts look like? In best case a group of competitors rushes to a wide meadow where the starting line is indicated. Where the competitor will stand is given only by self-reflection. No one solves spacings, corridors and rows. In the worst case, the competitors are driven into a narrow corridor, where they often do not have even half a meter of space between them. With the start signal, the whole start corridor usually sets off towards an uncertain fate. Contact, entanglement, aggression and falls are quite common. Why should the rules of mass start be followed? Canicross is by its nature a non-contact sport and its rules are written in this spirit. A mass start should not disadvantage any team and at the same time should provide enough space for a safe start to the track. Some starts are poorly prepared from the ground up and the risk of conflict is high. Conflict such as attacking at the start, tangling and the like is therefore partly the fault of the organizer and his non-compliance with the minimum requirements for a mass start. The dog and the competitor should not suffer because his opponent failed to start and caused them harm, whether mental, physical or just a loss of time. Rules for mass start (competitor) IFSS rules saids If a mass start is organized, all competitors with dogs must wait together behind the starting line. Racer must hold his dog by the collar or harness. If not everyone can stay in one row, the race marshal will set more rows as needed. Translated into common language, every competitor, including the dog, must stand in front of the starting line. Racer holds the dog briefly by the harness or collar. What do today's mass starts look like? Any intervention, even if friendly, is undesirable. However, the local unwritten rule tolerates everything except splitting / biting and the associated contact, which is only a distortion of the rules. At the same time, interventions are tolerated where the dog tries to attack, but fails to complete it. Incentives to play and other non-aggressive contacts are also tolerated. All this is contrary to the official rules, which are based on the philosophy that canicross is not a contact sport. How to train a mass start? There are as many ways as there are competitors at the starting line. In general, a mass start should be learned by a dog that already has a high value for moving forward. Exactly how you train you can't generalize. Each dog needs a different approach, but a few general recommendations can be applied. However, do not be afraid to contact professional dog trainers. General lessons A reactive dog that immediately turns against other dogs and is easily drawn to aggressive reactions should learn to start with dogs that do not suffer from the same problem as him. They should start at a distance where there is no reaction. Over time, the distance decreases over a number of weeks. (It is ideal to consult the training not only with the sports trainer, but especially with experienced dog trainers.) Fear reaction, the procedure is the same as for reactive dogs, we work with distance. It is important to identify the trigger of the reaction. Is it noise? Is it a violation of the personal zone? It is impossible to proceed without a known cause. Again, I recommend contacting a dog trainer and also a sports trainer. What should a mass start look like? At the start signal, your dog will move forward regardless of other dogs and noise. He won't let himself be drawn into a fight, he won't cross the corridor. Each competitor stands at the starting line and has enough space on both sides, 80 meters of his corridor in front of him, 10 meters of space behind him without other pushing dogs. That it is no longer a classic mass start? Yes, it is definitely not a classic mass start, it is safe and coming out of it at the head of the group does not mean not getting tangled, having sharp elbows and a dog that can withstand tingling. Conclusion Each organizer can determine their own rules of the race. If its rules do not regulate the behavior at a mass start, then it is not possible to require competitors and their dogs to behave fairly. Until the competitors themselves demand rules from the organizers, it is always up to each of us how it starts.

Content: Why prepare a dog before the race? What to prepare the dog for - condition What to prepare the dog for - situation Which dog does not belong to the races? What equipment does not belong in the races? Introduction We all already know how to behave at the race with our dog. If not, here are some tips. So what about the preparation of the dog before the race? If you're groping here, I'll come up with some tips on what to look out for. The article is not a detailed guide on how to prepare, but contains general tips and links to detailed articles. Many beginner participants go to the race blindly. They bet with a friend, get in the car and go overcome. This is exactly the type of racer you do not want to meet on the track. If you come up with something similar, believe me, it's not a good idea. Why prepare a dog before the race? Every race has its own rules, whether written or unwritten, but generally known. No one learned has fallen from heaven, so there is no shame in whistling everything. It is good to prepare the dog in advance for situations that may arise. You will save yourself, as well as other competitors any complications or protests. What to prepare the dog for - condition Overcoming yourself is respectable, but remember that you are not alone in it. Your dog is pulling you! He will be less interested of your overcoming than you and your loved ones, so you should be fair and prepare yourself and your dog physically. I don't know a sadder look than when I'm overtaking a team on a gentle slope, where the runner / walker loses consciousness and his dog partner is worse off, because it all has to pull. How to prepare a dog? Here is a list of articles I have written on this topic The basic condition of a dog, how to build it The content of the article is an explanation of the concept of basic condition. The need for this type of training is indisputable for a dog. Many problems with motivation for the move often stem from your dog's poor condition. How to work with temperatures in training. This article delves into the theory of working with temperature in training. This is already bit of science, but if you want your dog to give top performances, you will not avoid this laboratory work, at least at the elementary level. Overheating and cooling the dog related to a previous article on working with temperatures. Dogs have a specific cooling process and overheating is very problematic and unfortunately common. The tendency is also closely related to the physical condition of the dog. Interval training for a dog It is one of the methods to conduct dog training. It is applicable to both canicross and other disciplines. Interval training is not the only way to prepare the dog, however it is more demanding on the handler's abilities. What to prepare the dog for - situation Seriously, nothing should surprise me in the time I'm racing or running, but the opposite is true. Sometimes a situation arises that I would not invent, so it is good to prepare not much. I dealt with the situations on the track and the liquidation of my own dog in the article below. Betrayed musher dog describes, among other things, how big a problem is aggression on the track. The article contains a list of everything you can do to "spoil" your dog What your dog should be able to do? Directional commands - Being able to turn on command is a basic skill that probably doesn't need to be discussed. It is good to teach the dog to run from one side of the road to the other. This requires a bit of practice, but in the final you will appreciate it especially when overtaking. Slow down on command - Wondering why? Canicross runs to the fullest, but sometimes the force of the move is to the detriment. Especially in a situation where you have a heavy and strong dog and a sharp descent appears in front of you. Then you are grateful for the command that will relieve you of suffering. Dog should be obedient -Prepare it for a large number of dogs, for noise and chaos, for possible manipulation (weighing, chip loading, soaking the fur before the start) Serene and confident - Many situations can drive weaker characters into a corner. Manipulation, mental pressure during physical performance and sleep deprivation. It can also be mushing and the dog should be well prepared for it. What should a dog not do? Attacking other dogs- Any aggression on the track or in the race area is punishable by disqualification. Attacking other people - Aggression against people can also be a reason for disqualification. Which dog does not belong to the races? Dogs overweight can be perceived as cute. Dog obesity is often excused as a result of age or castration. Whatever it is caused by, it is a sign of very low dog condition. Give such a dog a few more weeks of preparation until it it loses weight. Weight reduction in a dog is much easier than in humans :-) Sick and injured dogs definitely do not belong to races. Physical performance combined with stress can make things worse. On the other hand, you can infect other dogs and it definitely does not belong to mushing races. Let the dog take care and heal his injuries. Dog ears docking or otherwise an unlawfully modified dog does not belong to any dog ​​competitions. 100% restriction is the only way to prevent similar practices. What equipment does not belong in the races? Leave the electric collar or barbed / spiked collar at home. All "training" aids that cause pain to the dog do not belong to the race. The dog muzzle, although tolerated by some races, it is forbidden on the track during the race by the race rules. The dog can wear it off the track. The Internet is full of discussion, but the rules are clear. If your dog can overtake without contact, the muzzle is useless. In addition, the muzzle makes it difficult to breathe freely and thus significantly increases the risk of the dog overheating. Conclusion To sum it up in a few lines, your dog should be healthy, in good physical and mental condition, obedient and non-aggressive towards dogs and people. Do you have personal experience with any topic in the article? I will be happy for your comments right here on the blog. Share, like and comment to the blog below...

introduction The popularity of individual mushing disciplines and the large influx of new faces into the sport raise concerns about how it will be in compliance with the rules of the sport and the racing rules. The rules should not be the prerogative of licensed competitors, but of course for all race organizers and anyone who stands at the start with their dog. In addition to the racing rules, which you will find in the link at the end of the article, we have decided to write many useful tips gained through years of experience as a competitor, but also a race organizer. It is not only about my experience, I will also describe the shared know-how of the members Musher klubu MK JCC.z.s. This manual is aimed primarily at beginners and intermediate competitors. Many current races are only partially or not governed by the ČASS (Czech Sleddog Sports Association) racing rules. Let us realize that not only the organizers of the races, but especially the competitors themselves significantly influence the quality of the given race and in a way participate in the development of the sport as such. Therefore, the goal should be to educate all of us and thus strive to develop sport in the right direction. Content: I want to race - how to choose a race? Arrival at the race / acceptance / tour of the track Follow the instructions of the organizer and helpers at the race Preparing to start In the race Finish and behavior after the run Results announcement Conclusion and links I want to race - how to choose a race? Many of us participate in the race, both as a competitor and as an observer, and the so-called "dog holder" as known as dog handler. We all have a duty to behave in accordance with the rules and regulations throughout the race. When choosing races, look for references from other competitors. Very often they have interesting comments. The safety and health of your dog is the most important thing. Therefore, we do not recommend races in the summer with a start in high temperatures. Even a guarantee of enough water at the start and finish will not prevent the dog from overheating. Experienced organizers have a shortened track in reserve in case of warm weather and other tools to reduce the risk to dogs' health. Many races do not hide the fact that their target group is just beginners. Please take into account the high concentration of inexperienced dogs and handlers and thus the increased risk of complications. This can lead to a paradox where a race for beginning athletes is the least suitable for them. Official races organized by registred musher clubs are not just for elite athletes. On the contrary, beginners are welcome here, regardless of the size of the dog. the most you will learn here is usually by observing other athletes. Always consider your dog's abilities. Track length, temperature and track profile should not be anything you are not prepared for. Arrival at the race / acceptance / tour of the track Our sport quite often requires a sacrifice in the form of your comfort. This is doubly true for races. The propositions almost always state the time required for the acceptance / presence of the competitors. That is why we go to the race to catch up with the acceptance in time. This will significantly save us such complications as a long queue 10 minutes before the end of the inspection and a huge group of roaring and attacking dogs at the inspection site. From personal experience, we highly recommend driving the day before and spending the night in the adjacent camp / boarding house or under a tent. This will help acclimatize you and your dog. All you need for the acceptance is a vaccination card, still filled in for official races "Chip list" Leave the dog in the car or at the stake-out before you go for inspection. If this is not possible, entrust it to the care of someone who will not go for the acceptance. If you have no choice but to take the dog, then try to shorten the stay among other dogs as much as possible. You will save him unnecessary stress in the form of a queue of roaring dogs, whose owners often do not respect their comfort and needs. We take the dog for acceptance only if the organizer directly requests it or if a veterinary inspection / acceptance of dogs is performed before the race. If you arrive on time, you can choose parking near the start and in the shade. Make plenty of time to walk the track and keep your dogs on the leash at all times! Some competitors ride the route before the race with a dog and there is no worse collision than with a dog without leash. Check the route markings and identify potentially dangerous sections. Adjust your time with the time of the starter / organizer. This time is commanding and your sleepy start is your fault. View the starting point and finish and prepare your start and finish and subsequent activities at the finish of the race. This will prevent confusion and mistakes. Follow the instructions of the organizer and helpers at the race Each race organizer will always specify the specific rules for their race in the propositions. No matter how meaningless these rules are or in conflict with the race rules, they have their justification. You, as a competitor who registers for the race, have a duty to know these rules and, most importantly, to follow them! Preparing to start In recent years, the interval form of a start with a time interval has been a frequent way of starting. Always be ready with your dog on time at the start point with the start number and chip attached. (Timely means at least 5-10 minutes before the start.) Always follow the organizer's instructions at the start. Keep your dog under control and keep it short so that he cannot contact other dogs unnecessarily and vice versa. If you can wait for the start in the shade, use this option, it safe your dogs energy. Start When you are already at the starting line and waiting for your starting time, we recommend the following: Always keep your dog short and in control. When starting on a scooter or bicycle, it is better to have one helper to keep the dog at the start. Stay focused to yourself and your dog. In the orher hand also keep track of what is happening in front of you and behind you. Knowledge of the opponent and the behavior of his dog can help you evaluate the situation on the track. Try to keep in touch with the organizer responsible for starting the competitors. At least eye-contact is important. In the case of a mass start, choose carefully where you stand. Be objective to your abilities and the abilities of your dog. Not everyone has to stand in the first wave of a mass start. At a mass start, keep the dog short for as long as necessary. Keeping your dog under control until a bunch of dogs and runners is torn apart. Once you have run out, remember that the race is won at the finish, not at the start! In the race Now it's up to you and your dog. However, even in this situation, there are some tips that can help you a lot: Follow the track in front of you, but also behind you, so that you have an overview of the upcoming faster team. In the event that someone overtakes you, it is your responsibility to immediately allow this team to overtake smoothly, even at the cost of having to stop and clear the track yourself. We recommend that you pay more attention and watch over your dog so that you are able to respond to the situation. When you overtake your opponent, always make sure that your dog does not contact the dog of the overtaken opponent in any way. Always indicate when overtaking that you intend to overtake. Make sure your opponent and his dog know about you. It is common practice and decency to report the side from which you intend to overtake your opponent. Basic comand / signal for overtaking is "Track" or "Trail" Calm your ambitions and overtake only in places where it is safe for you and your dog, as well as for the opponent and his dog. Consideration and self-reflection are always in place Finish and behavior after the run We all know what euphoria, pain, joy and confusion can occur in the finish. Here are some tips to keep in mind: Never, NEVER and NEVER again, drag your dog to the finish line. If he no longer has enough strength, run at a parallel pace. You already know the finish place, so you know where the water is, where you drop the chip. Do not stay at the finish line longer than necessary and free up space for other competitors. Take your dog away immediately or make sure he is taken to a quiet place. Here he can breathe in peace, relax and prepared fresh water. As soon as the dog is properly cared for, ie it is calm, well-trotted, watered and ready to rest, then immediately put it in the car or in a place where it can rest calmly and undisturbed. Do not drag your dog with you in the race area and give him peace! All actions associated with taking care of your dog should take absolute precedence over your personal needs! Waiting for the announcement of results and the ceremonial itself It may sound ridiculous, but this part of the race has its unwritten rules. If you are going to complain about the behavior of a competitor, now is the time. The organizer is no longer obliged to deal with your later protests on Facebook. Is your time wrongly measured ? Notify the organizer immediately. However, the rule is that the organizer and his timekeeper are always right and it is up to them to assess your complaint. Let your dog rest and don't drag him out unnecessarily unless you have a podium. If you still insist on a photo with your dog from the podium, then try to keep your dog out of the action and calm as much as possible. Conclusion Don't be ashamed to ask the more experienced and don't be afraid to contradict and discuss their claims with them. More experienced competitors have already built their own rituals, which may conflict with this brief manual. However, this does not mean that the manual or the competitor's ritual is wrong. Everyone has to find a way to deal with the race day. However, the health and comfort of your dog should come first. Don't forget to subscribe to this blog so you don't miss anything :-) Important links: Race rules (Czech) - ZDE Czech association of sleddog sports - ZDE Musher club JCC, z.s. - ZDE

Why COROS PACE 2? As a runner and person, I crave new technologies that move training efficiency higher and higher. So logically, I reached for the STRYD WIND its wonderfull toy, which I wrote about HERE. However, this wattmeter didn't want to be very friendly with my new Garmin FR 235 watch. During the year of running with a wattmeter, these watches appeared on the e-shop www.s1w.cz and promised that coveted cooperation with STRYD without the need to install an external application and other tasks. So I reached for a new brand right after the first batch in the Czech Republic! I will update this review and add new information while using the watch. The story of the legend: The COROS brand is betting on its engaging advertisement with running celebrity Eliud Kipchoge. When overcoming the "Sub 2" marathon in less than two hours, this phenomenal Kenyan runner had COROS PACE 2 on his hands. Kipchoge literally said: "I can't train without a watch. I'm a marathoner and when I run a long run I wear only the lightest and most comfortable things. COROS currently offers the lightest watch (29-35 g depending on the type of strap), which is good for me. Running with them is the same feeling like running without a watch! " I definitely have to agree with the last sentence. I was really worried if my watch had slipped out of my hand because I can´t feel them on my wrist. Parameters: Pace 2 cost a surprising 240 USD when launched. With its parameters, it easily outperforms the models of competing brands in the same price category. Display size 1.2 ", 240 x 240 (64 colors) Always-On Memory LCD display type Corning® Glass surface Fiber-reinforced polymer frame Fiber-reinforced polymer cover Silicone / Nylon strap Quick release strap 20mm Size42 × 42 × 11.7mm, Weight with silicone strap 35 g, Weight with nylon strap 29 g Bluetooth phone connectivity Connectivity with ANT + / Bluetooth accessories GPS satellite chip, GLONASS, Beidou (Galileo with future firmware upgrade) Sensors Optical heart rate monitor, Barometric altimeter, Accelerometer, Compass, Gyroscope, Thermometer Waterproof 5ATM (50 Meters / 164 Feet) Operating temperatures -4 ° F to 140 ° F (-20 ° C to 60 ° C) Charging time Less than 2 hours Battery Life 20 days of continuous use, 30 hours in Full GPS mode, 60 hours in UltraMax mode Supported activities Running, treadmill, track, bike, indoor bike, swimming pool, open water, triathlon, cardio, gym, GPS cardio, strength, training The thermometer is useless During the first month of testing, the thermometer proved useless. If you have a watch on hand, the temperature is always around 78F - 86F (25 - 30 ° C). To find out the actual air temperature, it is necessary to take off the watch and leave it out of the reach of body heat for a while. Optical heart rate monitor It works better than it did with the Garmin FR 235 or Vivoactive 3. When you put the watch on your sleeve, the heart rate drops to zero and it does not invent "probable values". However, the accuracy of hand heart rate measurement is as poor as that of all other sports tester brands compared to the HRM chest strap. When the HR rises, the delay is somewhere around 5 seconds. The decline is delayed by more than 8 seconds and at beats above 170, the measurement of the decline is completely out of reality. Settings and first activity I do not want to write a review as a salesman or ambassador who would like to convince you of the perfection of this watch. This is followed by a free capture of feelings and knowledge from the first touches, runs and discoveries. they were telling the truth! The weight of my watch took my breath away. Indeed, they are so light that one is afraid of being crushed. I immediately set about setting up and pairing with for the first time app COROS. After setting up the application, you will find that it is a bit "poor" against Garmin Connect. However, the first feeling of a "poor" application disappears after the first run and subsequent data analysis. This is ahead of me, so back to the application and its capabilities. The first part is purely analytical and contains the following sections: Calories burned Total training time Number of steps Development of heart rate over time Information about your sleep. Each metric can be opened and studied in detail. On the same screen you will also find the so-called Training load, ie a kind of graph showing the level of your overtraining. This is a useless metric for MYSASY users, but every beginner will certainly appreciate it. The last indicator is the Fitness index and fitness level, which based on your recent performance predicts your VO2 max, limit "threshold" rate and expected heart rate LTHR, ie Lactate threshold heart rate. The second part contains a history of your activities. Here you can clearly filter your activities or view statistics of all activities on the timeline. The third part contains user data, your personal records, scheduled training units and training plans, and the Muscle heatmap function. This feature is quite interesting if you are exercising without a personal trainer. Based on the selected exercises, it shows you over time in the silhouette of the figure which muscle parts you involved the most and which you forgot. It is therefore a kind of control mechanism that should help prevent overloading of some often loaded muscles. The fourth and last screen contains detailed watch settings. Workout data for me is a TOP feature. I conveniently pre-set the individual data screens for all training modes from the phone. One click and 5 seconds of upload and the watch has taken over all the settings. In addition, you can freely change the "look of the watch" here. Edit your watch menus, edit your training schedules and, last but not least, update your GPS data! Just one click to update the GPS before training and your watch will load the GPS within 5 seconds. STRYD compatibility That's why I bought this watch. So how does it work? I admit that I didn't even have time to register how the two devices actually paired. In the MENU / SYSTEM on the watch, I selected an external sensor via ANT + / BLTH and Stryd appeared in an instant. I confirmed the pairing and that's it. Really? No external application? No watch teasing? On the first run, I checked the current power and the average power for the last 30 seconds, and I followed the cadence of the steps to see how the watch displays the metrics and everything seemed flawless. When I paired the CORROS application and the STRYD Power Center, the watch automatically took over the values ​​of the performance zones from the stry and therefore evaluates the wattage on the basis of this data. Unfortunately, for a detailed analysis of the measured values, you will have to go either directly to the Stryd power center or import data into other platforms such as training peaks or FOOD (all can be automatically paired and the data will be sent immediately after the activity). The COROS mobile application cannot recalculate the sections you have selected and will show you a "mere" dry list of what happened during the performance. However, if watts are your main metric, that's not a shortcoming, because you spend most of your time analyzing data in the Power Center. COROS application summary I find the application to be very useful and sufficient for runners who do not want to associate online and they only want a clear list of activities and detailed feedback on their performance. Forget about collecting badges and "likes or kudos" from friends, you're on your own ... I wanted to point out the impossibility of choosing more "masks" for the map, but before I dug to write, this shortcoming disappeared. In update 2.36.0, COROS added to the map not only the strength and direction of the wind, but also the humidity, temperature and prevailing weather at the training site. They also added map masks: Satellite, Outdoors, winter, Cali Terrain and Dark. It can be seen that COROS is still working on its application and releases updates practically every month. Preliminary conclusion As I use the watch and make friends, I will expand this review. I will gradually add details about the construction and recording of training plans, controllability of the watch in the field and the accuracy of measuring the conquered track, because here COROS promises "smart corrections" GPS measurements, see the graphics below. Thanks for the patient reading and don't forget to subscribe :-) Positive: Weight max 35g Price performance ratio STRYD compatibility Only two control buttons Intuitive lighting Long battery life (tested at an average temperature of -9 ° C, the watch is exposed to a gust of wind on the jacket sleeve. It managed 26 hours on a single charge with the STRYD and HR belt attached) Negative: impossibility of detailed data analysis Absence of an online platform Difficult construction of training plans Difficult handling of the wheel button in gloves At present, it is almost impossible to get a protective glass on the display Inability to edit activities

The Internet is full of posts that will more or less help you shed so many hated extra pounds. Recently, it has been mentioned in the course as a guaranteed procedure to reduce weight by running. The theory of easy aerobic exercise lasting a long time, which will relieve you of the desired pounds, proves to be effective. However, it is not so easy and not free at all. Therefore, we will list the TOP 10 important points that are good to keep in mind. We not only want to drop centimeters at the waist, but also not get hurt. Are you trying to lose weight, but is it slow or not at all? I will compile a tailor-made program for you and we will update it every week and consult your procedure. 1. Easy to run / walk Let's throw NO PAIN, NO GAIN rule behind your head. If we have to tighten the belt by a few holes, we have to be smart. Fat as an energy source for running is only usable if we have enough oxygen to oxidize it. We have to be in the so-called aerobic phase of exercise. Simply put, our body has enough oxygen not only to cover the needs created by movement, but also something extra. From the point of view of metabolism, we will be on the verge of the so-called aerobic threshold. This is the intensity of the load at which about 2-2.5 mmol of lactic acid accumulates in the blood. Those who have a measured lactate curve know exactly what heart rate, resp. the frequency corresponds to this load. Those who do not know their threshold and only guess should run at such a pace that they are able to speak in full sentences. This can sometimes only mean brisk walking. 2. Long run / walk Leave your idea that mileage counting is what gets you in your smaller pants. Experienced runners know that heart and metabolism do not count kilometers. The only thing that interests him is the intensity and the time he moves in it. For fat burning, a 30-minute run or brisk walk is the absolute minimum for beginners. Running and brisk walking for at least 60 minutes is standard and effective. 3. How often There is no precise guide or training plan that can generalize the frequency of training for all runners. It will be very helpful if you leave the standard seven-day model of the training week. If you insist on a weekly schedule for order and precise time management, I usually recommend training as follows to reduce adipose tissue: DAY 1: running / brisk walk 60min DAY 2: free DAY 3: running / brisk walking 60 min DAY 4: running / brisk walking 30-40 min DAY 5: additional activity (bike, skates, gym) DAY 6: regenerative free walk / trot 30 min DAY 7: running / brisk walking 90 min DAY 8: free DAY 9: regenerative free walk / trot 30 min DAY 10: morning 40 min run / brisk walk, early evening 30 min free walk / trot 4. Don't overdo it with activity, regeneration is necessary The following article becomes a very frequent subject of discussion: "I train roundworm twice a week, TRX once a week, I run three times a week and I still don't lose weight! What am I doing wrong?" Practically everything is wrong, summed up and underlined, that unfortunate person trains 6 times a week with one day off. The body metabolizes waste products generated by physical activity at the time of regeneration. Good sleep and low heart rate contribute to the body's adaptation to the previous load. If we do not give the body enough rest, then in the following training it will start with an unfinished regeneration process and low adaptive capacity. This exposes us to an increased risk of injury and overtraining. 5. Strong overweight and running Your musculoskeletal system agrees with this point. Joints, bones, muscles and other soft tissues have to absorb enormous energy every step of the way. If you drop a pound while running, it can be assumed that you do not have the running technique of Kenyan endurance athletes. The running technique is often marked due to the extensive adipose tissue. To give you an idea, take your body weight and multiply it by the number 2. The value you get is the number of kilos acting on your heel when it hits the heel. The joints, ligaments and muscles have to deal with it somehow. Model calculation: A young lady, 25 years old, 150 cm tall with 90 kg in an hour-long run with poor technique, will put her foot on a load corresponding to 900,000 kg per foot. 6. Calories don't count A very common argument for weight reduction is the caloric deficit. It's a situation where I eat less kcal a day than my body burns. This math is so simple and unassailable that everyone has to believe it. Unfortunately, not all calories are the same, and the body handles those derived from carbohydrates differently from those obtained from animal fats. Ultimately, the adaptation of each individual's organism plays a major role. Some people can use fats much better than others and others cannot. Therefore, we prefer to follow the next point number 7. 7. Quality diet without unnecessary calories Fortunately, the time has passed when 0% fat on the packaging was the main selling item. Today, we already know that quality fats, on the other hand, are beneficial and should form a significant part of the energy source. Try to think and ignore for a moment the magical mantras of nutrition counselors who boast certificates and brandish slogans such as a balanced diet. In general, less is always more: Leave for a while the empty energy represented by side dishes such as rice, french fries, pasta and potatoes Replace side dishes with vegetables in all ways Let your imagination run wild at breakfast and take away all the cereals and piles of fruit Eat eggs or quality dairy products 8. Wherever the head wants, the body goes People who only lose weight usually stop very early arguing that it doesn't work. The secret is to want it and not give up. Don't look at the faded areas in the mirror and don't judge. Try to keep a positive view of the matter. The ideal figure of muscular couples hopping on the beach is a myth and a marketing blockbuster. You lose weight for yourself and not for your surroundings. A slim person is not one who can eat anything and not gain weight. He is one who eats healthily and plays sports regularly. Set your head from "I'll try" mode to "I can do it" mode. 9. The group pulls better, but it must not be exaggerated In the age of social networking, we have a unique opportunity to connect with a group of people who are solving the same problem. Motivation is the basis of success and it will definitely get you ahead of it without the support. Watch out for internet ultra athletes. In each group of runners on the social network, there are individuals who have a top figure, a degree from several schools of physical education and human nutrition and have 48 hours of time every day. These athletes usually train non-stop and eat only really beautiful food. Don't be fooled, the truth is often completely different. In everyday life, who among us has time to take dozens of top photos from a tripod at a running training? To create a masterpiece for breakfast with the help of fruits of all colors and to harmonize the table and place settings? To do all this wonderfully to paint, comb and, in addition, look wonderful even when you wake up ?? 10. Promises are to be fulfilled In the title, I promise ten important conditions for weight loss. The latter is very simple. Don't draw from just one source. This article is not a guaranteed procedure to achieve the goal. It's just another article in that flood called the internet. Choose interesting facts and useful information and look no further! I wish you good luck on your journey to another body. If you are interested in the article, do not hesitate and subscribe to this blog!

There is beauty in simplicity, and when combined with functionality, it will make you happy. In short, first impressions of the new belt RACE PRO from czech brand MANMAT. I was lucky enough to be able to add a bit to the mill and test the new seat, so the following text is an excerpt of personal knowledge and knowledge of other members of the MANMAT team from southern Bohemia. It therefore does not include the opinions and findings of other MANMAT testers. The first encounter with the RACE PRO version 1 seat prototype When I received the very first version of the new seat intended for testing, it did not differ in any dizzying way from the constructions of the current seats of competing companies. We will hardly come up with a better cut than the one from Rockempire, and the only fundamental differences can be found in the materials used and the tweaks in the form of pockets. At first glance, it was clear that the brand was betting on what really characterized it. The seat was pleasantly light and simple. I have been training with this seat for half a year and have also completed a few races. In the following coronavirus and a few virtual races. After many kilometers, I wrote points with other testers that the company should work on so that the seat is really good and, most importantly, practical. The testers collected the stimuli to modify the first version for more than a year. If I had to describe this seat in a few words, it would be: light, simple, unobtrusive, functional. The road to satisfaction was definitely not easy Since the last waves of COVID made the work on improvements and flexibility in the implementation of our suggestions uncomfortable, I had an identical copy of the test seat made by Simča Pischekova and her company WOOBOJKY with minor modifications so that I could work on my own. The result has always been many other changes and stimuli. We have modified this copy twice more so that all the straps and buckles are exactly where they are supposed to be. In the overall evaluation for MANMAT, we agreed with other South Bohemians on many points in which to improve the seat. Fits, doesn't writhe, I don't know about him It is important to mention that the seat must be tightened really well. Loose panties, poorly adjusted side straps or a waist belt always mean a malfunctioning seat. So after quite thorough suction, I was pleasantly surprised that even with a relatively strong dog on a rugged track, the seat did not move. At first I had hip problems after a long run. It was the result of poorly adjusted side straps, which connect the lumbar part with the lower part, from which it transmits tension to the buttocks and hips. After resetting, the problems disappeared. Here it is important to mention that my rear straps are more tight than the side straps. Negatives You can't talk about objectivity without negatives, which is why I add a handful of shortcomings. Construction is not new I have not tested the possibility to tie a "Pocket" if you stuff the pocket with your phone and other things, there is a risk of discomfort in the form of "jumping" the pocket while running Long runs, none of the seat testers tested at greater distances of 20 km and more, where other shortcomings could manifest themselves So far only in one color The design is MANMAT's own, but if you go primarily for the look, it will not enchant you Positive Lightweight and well adjustable Padded lumbar strap Sturdy workmanship, immortal It's not rolling MANMAT STYLE :-) Affordable 100% Czech The opinion of a MANMAT team member may be biased Although I became a member of the MANMAT team only a few months after the first tests, I realize that my evaluation may be biased. So I enclose an interview with Michal Poledník, an excellent runner and canicrosser, who has not yet shown us everything he can in canicross and I think we have something to look forward to for the coming seasons. The main thing is that he is impartial and at first he was very skeptical about the seat and did not want to change his tried-and-tested seat. Could you briefly describe the first feelings when you stretched him out and harnessed the dog? So after the first training I was quite excited. Since it was just a technical track with sharp turns, I was curious how the seat would behave, but he didn't even move on me. He didn't even spin at the sides with sharp changes of direction. I run with the leash attached firmly to the knot to the seat loop, with a logical instantaneous thrust to the sides each time the direction changes, so we've checked the seat enough. I was really surprised at how tight he held me. However, this applies to perfect tightening and adjustment. Other trainings confirmed it to me. What do you see as the main advantages of a belt? Definitely the durability of its design. But it is comfortable and light. I really like the upper lumbar belt, which resembles a piece of dog harness and is very comfortable. I was also afraid that the straps in my groin would make me angry, I tend to have a problem with overtightening it, but it was also without problems there. What makes it different from other brands? I would say that we managed to combine quality design and material with maximum functionality and durability. If a person can adjust the seat correctly and feels good in it, he can have it for many years. I can't imagine anything wear or tear on it. But time will tell. Is there anything wrong with you on that belt? Personally, I won't use the snap carabiner snap ring. I tie the leash firmly directly to the strap, so the ring at the front flew unnecessarily. I solved it by attaching it to the side with the seat width adjustment strap, so it wouldn't push me there anymore. How long did it take you to set it up correctly? Just that moment. A couple of seats had already passed through my hands, so I already knew where to tighten it more and where less. I keep the upper waist belt quite low, then I have a more compact impression of the whole seat when running. Is there anything else you would like to write about the seat? If it was sold in color variants over time, or at least there was a limited edition in yellow or orange, I would definitely not be angry. I'm tired of coloring. In conclusion The MANMAT brand won me over years ago when I was looking for a suitable harness for my tow trucks. I am also impressed by the fact that it is 100% Czech and manufactured in the Czech Republic and their equipment simply works, moreover, the brand does not rely on aggressive, ubiquitous marketing, but on its functionality and tradition. I have never been able to identify with using or promoting things I do not agree with or trust, regardless of the benefits it would bring me. In order not to celebrate this brand, it is worth noting that canicross equipment is currently available from many different manufacturers, always in high quality. So it's up to us which manufacturer we choose. Sources website of manufacturer MANMAT

Introduction Accelerated time often directly affects sports training. Amateur athletes in particular are under a lot of pressure to combine work, family, sports training, regeneration and compensation. Planning a normal day can sometimes mean counting minutes. This time exposes us to many pressures and stresses that our ancestors did not know, and therefore we should learn to work with excessive perceptions and stresses. Application MySASY will help us not to waste time in training! How does MySASY work? This system monitors the resting heart rate with an accuracy of 0.001 s. It evaluates its variability (heart rate variability - HRV) using spectral analysis (SA). It evaluates the state of the autonomic nervous system (ANS), which operates independently of our will and decides on all activation and regeneration processes in the body. Now simply, the mySASY application can tell you after the measurement if it is a good time for demanding training or you should slow down. It is not divination from the coffee grounds, but a detailed management of the state of your ANS, which your mind will not fool. How will this help me in training? MySASY every morning after the measurement informs us how our ANS is doing. This information is useless on its own, without knowledge of regeneration processes, but if you learn to interpret the measured values, you will get a powerful weapon. If you are not very good at interpreting the results, you can also use the basic instructions of the application, which will inform you about your current status and how to deal with it in the next training. After the measurement, you know how your body reacted to the previous training, how it reacts to the entire training phase and how the surrounding factors affect your body's readiness for the next training sessions. It can show you when you train too hard, when you train too little and when you have the capacity to do intensive training. When ordering your chosen program, use my loyalty code "mushmas" and get a 15% discount What do I need for that? Smart phone with Bluetooth Application MySASY (Free, Basic, Sport) Chest strap HRM with bluetooth Sport application STRAVA (optional, Free and Subscribe versions work) How to start measuring? Instalation of application MySASY (IOS , Android ) Activation of program Free, Basic or Sport Pairing the application with the HRM chest strap Measurement, according to the application instructions If you want to start with MySASY, but you do not know how to interpret the results, I will be happy to help you. More info

Why does the greyhound appear in the pedigrees of European sled dogs and other similar sled-sport hybrids? It's definitely because the greyhound is a real dog athlete! In the following lines, I decided to list interesting facts about greyhounds that distinguish them from other breeds. Where there is money, there is research Over the past 20 years, Dr. Ross Staaden in Perth drove greyhounds on a high-speed treadmill to measure energy and oxygen consumption, heart rate and other physiological parameters. Another "gray" researcher is Dr. Robert Gillette of the University of Alabama in the USA, who measured step by step the movement patterns and distribution of forces in running. Thanks to these gentlemen, we have gained a good overview that greyhounds function as a very finely and precisely tuned racing machine. Due to the huge popularity of greyhound racing, we have a lot of data and information today. The pursuit of top performance has thus given the green light to many studies. Energy use I wrote about this topic in the article The energy of a dog athlete. Muscle glycogen stores and the ability to use carbohydrates as a primary energy source have been shown to be ineffective in dogs. For greyhounds, the latest studies from 2018 show that it is as follows: In the first 7.5 seconds, ie only in the phase of initial acceleration, the greyhound metabolizes large energy creatines and glycogen stores in the muscles without the need for oxygen. Subsequently, it will switch to the use of fat reserves. The study does not take into account the body's energy supply for more than 1 minute, so it may not be completely relevant for mushring needs. It can be assumed that in the case of repeated starts and pulling up a steep hill, the dog reaches for carbohydrates to a limited extent. Acceleration and speed The Greyhound reaches a speed of up to 70 km / h within 30 meters after the first rebound. Another animal on the planet that can accelerate faster over the same distances is just a cheetah. It reaches a speed of 109 km / h within 3-4 steps from the start. Greyhound muscles generate 75-80% of their strength from anaerobic metabolic pathways during the first 30 seconds of exercise. When running for more than 30 seconds, the energy supply is taken over by fat metabolism, which ultimately accounts for up to 90% of the total resource. Heart Cardiac output (blood discharge) increases from approximately 200 ml per kg body weight per minute at rest to more than 1000 ml per kg at full gallop. The greyhound's heart pumps up up to 15 liters of blood in 30 seconds of exercise. The heart weight of a greyhound ranges from 1.18 to 1.73% of its body weight or from 390 to 519 grams for a 30 kg greyhound, which is more than the elite racehorse, which is 1.0 to 1.3% body weight. Other breeds of dogs have a heart weight of 0.77% of their body weight. To imagine the human heart makes up 0.5% of its total weight. The average human athlete weighing 70 kg has a heart as big as a 30 kg greyhound. In addition, however, the heart supplies blood almost twice as fast. When galloping, it beats at a frequency of 310-340 beats / minute, compared to humans 170-210 beats / minute. The greyhound is many times more effective in its ability to oxygenate the body and the muscles that work. This is one of the reasons why the greyhound manages to oxygenate muscles even when lactate accumulates above 8 mmol / l, which is about twice the human anaerobic threshold. Blood and red blood cells The Greyhound has the highest blood volume of any known animal athlete. Blood makes up 11.4% of its total cash flow, compared to 10.5% for racehorses and 9.5% for human sprinters and 7.2% for other pet dogs. Greyhound in the bone marrow and spleen produces about 5 million red blood cells per second. Greyhound has about 3 liters of blood consisting of about 2 liters of red blood cells. Lots of red blood cells = lots of oxygen for working muscles. Such an enormous amount of red blood cells with a unique ability to oxygenate the body literally makes it a race machine! In conclusion If we think about the fairness of the races and the comparison of individual dogs in mushing with each other, we must clearly conclude that the 30-kgs hybrid ESP, greyster and other greyhounds must naturally dominate other breeds over 25 kg. Therefore, dividing categories by weight will never lead to "fair play". Links to used resources: Physiological parameter values in greyhounds before and after high-intensity exercise https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5918126/ Greyhound Athelete Facts http://www.easypetmd.com/doginfo/greyhound-athelete-facts Grayhound Medical Idiosyncrasies https://www.greyhoundfriends.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Greyhound-Health-Packet-2016.pdf

Continuation of the article Overheating and cooling of the dog sprinter. The biggest limit in dog pull training is the high air temperature. We have already written something about overheating in the article Overheating and cooling of a dog sprinter. Humidity combined with temperature and wind force during training I mentioned only marginally in the article. In the following lines, we will focus on these quantities in more depth. We will write why it is good to know the effect of humidity and wind force on the air temperature and try to understand the formula for calculating the feels like temperature. Beware of high air temperatures The first signal to leave the harness on the hanger and the dogs in the litter should be the air temperature. As we explained in the article on overheating, the dog cannot sweat and its cooling system therefore relies on other mechanisms, especially the low temperature of the surrounding air in combination with its flow. The main "coolers" in a dog are its ears, tongue and, last but not least, the entire surface of the body, which releases the accumulated heat by radiation. For your dog, the high temperature can be above 15 ºC. However, this value takes many forms and 15 ºC is not always the same. Why? It depends on other factors such as relative humidity, wind force and sunlight intensity. Humidity Humidity is still an easily measurable quantity. Each local weather station lists it in %. We will be interested in the relative humidity of the air, which is expressed by the amount of water vapor in the air. The basic characteristic of air humidity is the water vapor pressure, which expresses the water vapor pressure in a mixture with dry air. In layman's terms, the higher the humidity, the harder it is for the sweat to evaporate from the body surface or, in the case of a race dog, water from the fur (if you soak the dog). However, this does not mean that 100% humidity is ideal for training, because your dog will not dry so quickly. On the contrary, high humidity combined with high temperature is a deadly combination. This brings us to a combination of humidity and "feels like temperature", which we call the combination temperature, and it is no longer so easily measurable. Wind Chill This method is only used at temperatures below 10 ° C and wind speeds above 1.3 m / s. In addition to the measured temperature, it also takes into account the strength of the wind. The human body creates a thin layer of heated air around itself in an environment with a lower than body temperature. This layer can be disturbed, or "Blown away", so we feel more cold than would correspond to the measured temperature. Feels like temperature The temperature measured by a thermometer indicates a physical quantity - that is, information about the air temperature. However, everyone somehow subconsciously suspects that at 30 ° C in big city they will feel completely different than at 30 ° C in the rainforest. How we subjectively feel temperature is affected by many factors. It is for these reasons that the so-called "feels like temperature" is often mentioned, which can take into account, for example, wind speed, humidity or even the amount of sunlight. There is no single formula for calculating this data. The most commonly used formula is this: AT = T + 0,33*e – 0,7*v – 4, where T is the air temperature (° C), v is the wind speed (m / s) and e is the water vapor pressure (hPa). The following then applies to: e = (RH / 100) * 6,105 * exp((17,27 * T) / (237,7 + T)), where RH is the relative humidity (in%), T is the temperature (° C) and exp is the exponential function. It is very important to realize that the feels like temperature depends mainly on the combination of wind force, humidity, ambient temperature and the intensity of sunlight. As a converter, I am adding several tables that clearly show the feels like temperature under certain conditions. Windless temperature in different humidity levels: Example: At a temperature of 10 ° C and a humidity of 50%, the sensory temperature is 8.5 ° C. Feeling temperature under different wind forces at different humidity levels: Example: At a temperature of 10 ° C, a humidity of 50% and a wind speed of 9.7 m / s (35 km / h), the sensory temperature is 1.2 ° C. Feeling temperature under different wind forces in average humidity in the Czech Republic (70%): Practical use in mushing The practical use for training may not be obvious at first glance. Feeling temperature is more valuable than just air temperature because it takes into account humidity and gusts of wind. If we can calculate the sensory temperature very accurately, it only depends on the coach's ability to draw conclusions from the values ​​obtained. It is logical that the limit temperature for canicross will be different than for scooter and bicycle. The IFSS (International Federation of Sleddog Sports) Rules of Procedure deal with this problem more precisely. Although we have calculated the correct temperature for the given locality under the current conditions, keep in mind that we still proceed from the general formula, which gives average numbers. It takes into account the average wind speed at a given location, temperature and relative humidity, which prevail directly at the measuring sensor. All these factors can change rapidly in different parts of the track. This brings us to the level of the microclimate for the given location and there can be several of them on the 6 km long track. The temperature here can oscillate by 5 to 10 ° C. You can also use an unofficial formula that will tell you immediately whether it is good to start or not. Multiply the temperature by the humidity. Example 18 ° C at 85% humidity. If the product is higher than the number 1500 for canicross, it is recommended to shorten the track or not start at all. If the product is higher than 1360 for wheel classes, it is also canceled or shortened. However, it always depends on the plant director and the conditions on site. According to the racing rules, the temperature and humidity are measured 50 cm above the ground at the start point. However, as we wrote above, the conditions change along the track and if the start is in the forest by the stream and the rest of the track through the meadows, then the starting value is misleading. Race what you train and train what you race It seems like a trivial lesson, but it hides a simple relationship. If you average the product of temperature and humidity for the last month of training and get a value of 700, then it is clear that a race worth 1300 will be a nice mess for your dog. He is used to training at temperatures around 8-10 ° C at a humidity of 70% and suddenly he arrives at a race with a temperature of 16 ° C and a humidity of 81%. Although the race rules allow you to start, you can easily cook your dog, because the conditions to which the body is accustomed are suddenly almost twice as high. Therefore, it is good to guard these values, even if only for guidance. Conclusion Long clearings in the middle of the forest with almost zero gusts of wind in direct sunlight. A glowing hot road in the late afternoon. This is a murderous cocktail that should be avoided. Another common mistake is to go training after the summer rain. The relative humidity is then maximum and with zero wind gust and summer temperature it creates a murderous combination for training. We could continue the list, but that is not the subject of the article. As a bonus to the article, I enclose a table for calculating the sensory temperature, which I compiled in Excel, it can take into account the temperature, humidity and wind force. Download temperature matrix HERE Sources: Portál ČHMÚ www.priroda.cz

Introduction In dogs, as in humans, it is necessary to build an absolute basis for later training superstructures in the form of strength, speed or endurance. We will call this basis "basic condition" or also "general endurance / condition". Every active athlete already knows what we are going to talk about. Yes! These are, for example, the long winter volume runs that build you in basic condition. Many sprinters hate them and take them as a necessary evil, and marathon runners have them for breakfast. Why apply this training to a dog? What is their significance for his condition? We will answer everything in this article. I can help with building the basic condition of your dog. I compile training recommendations week after week. more information here Heart and lungs In proportion to the size and weight of the dog, his heart and lungs are far larger than ours. The heart of a dog makes up 0.7 - 0.9% of a dog's weight, while a human makes up only 0.3% of its total weight. However, the functions perform the same and honest training is required for stable quality performance. The process of oxygenation of blood and its transport across the body is very effective due to the structure of the body and the primary purpose of the dog. It is therefore not surprising that in breeds such as hounds and greyhounds, VO2max can reach up to four times the top marathon runner. It follows that the burden for the effective development of the dog's condition will be in a different dimension than our lazy winter paddock. The meaning of basic condition training, what is happening in the dog's body The basic condition serves as a base plate for later training. It can also be imagined as a supporting pillar of a high-rise building. The larger and stronger the base, the greater the subsequent load on the body. Therefore, this phase of training is the alpha and omega of all later training. The effort put into these trainings has its demonstrable benefits at a later stage. Regardless of whether your dog is a musher puller, agile or weight puller, the need to build basic condition is the same for everyone. The specialization is based on the basic condition in later special trainings. By training the basic condition, your dog builds and expands the aerobic zone. The muscles get used to the slight accumulation of lactic acid. Slow muscle fibers are trained and learn to manage oxygen and energy efficiently. The heart and circulatory system improve its ability to deliver oxygen to the working muscles. Under this load, the source of energy is almost exclusively fat, which is also the most efficient fuel. If your dog is overweight, instead of looking for a "light" version of the food, you should definitely include more exercise in this load, because unlike humans, the effect of weight reduction is almost immediate. Overweight is the biggest enemy Remember that a deviation of 1.5 kg for a dog with an ideal weight of 25 kg is 6% extra weight! In relation to humans, it is as if a 65-kilo runner gained 4 kg. Anyone who is actively running knows that even one kilogram upstairs is very familiar at times and joints. Overweight in the long run significantly shortens the life of the dog, not only sports, but also the overall. Joints and ligaments are overloaded and it is only a matter of time before they fail. Do not take allusions to your dog's weight in person. Be objective and admit that it's time for a change. Your dog will give it back to you for more years of devoted coexistence and love. Training description Do you ride your dog free at the bike? Does he go jogging with you? Does he go swimming with you? All these activities are a non-violent form of basic fitness training. The ideal period for these trainings is outside the racing season, in which the training focuses on the specializations themselves. Therefore, do not leave your partners at home and try to take them to your paddocks or nature rides as often as possible. This effort will pay off several times during the racing season. Of course, we also train general endurance in the racing season, but only to a limited extent and only in longer periods between races. If we would like to express the frequency of these trainings as a percentage in relation to the period, then 80% of all trainings outside the racing season for at least 1.5 - 2 months will consist of basic fitness training. In the time just before the season and in the season it will be only 60%. These values ​​are again individual and each rider or runner has their own well-established procedures. We do not measure basic fitness training for kilometers, but we monitor the time during which the dog is in constant motion. Ideally 20-50 minutes, but not less than 20 minutes. Even experienced runners do not measure kilometers, because they know very well that it depends on an adequate heart rate (70-80% of the maximum heart rate) and the time for which the body is exposed to this higher heart rate. (Note: The maximum heart rate and specific heart rate for mild to moderate exercise is an unexplored landscape in dogs, and I firmly believe that a publication describing these processes will appear soon.) Underlined and summed up: If you regularly take long walks with your dog, during which he has enough exercise, goes swimming or actively runs other canine sports, then you are satisfied. In conclusion We don't really have to call basic training at all. This is an active life for your dog. Long walks and plenty of varied exercise. Although it may seem like a banality and many of you are tapping your forehead, why do we call it training at all, so know that many dogs only know their bed in the apartment or the cage in the garden. They only look outside when walking or racing. Basic condition is not only a way to better performance, but also a long and especially healthy life for your dog. Sources: www.physiology.org www.semanticscholar.org

Introduction At the beginning, we will explain the importance of interval training in sports. We can partly thank Czech running legend Emil Zátopek for this training system. Another important pioneer of the interval training system in combination with the use of VO2max is undoubtedly the professor at A.T. Still University, Mr. Jack Daniels. It was he who introduced the VDOT measurement system (ie VO2max - ie the athlete's ability to use oxygen). He then began to use the knowledge in the training of runners, while making extensive use of interval training. If you are groping in canicross training, I will be happy to help. More about individual consultations and canicross, scooter or bikejóring training HERE What is interval training? Interval training is not the domain of runners. This term and system is used across all sports. It is a simple but effective training system. From the word interval, it is clear that this will be a training consisting of several training units with breaks. Unlike the running concept of this training, where interval training means running short to medium sections in a load close to the anaerobic threshold, dogs are sections of different lengths in a sled at different speeds - from low speed to one that is close to the racing pace. . To ensure high variability that eliminates training stereotypes, we divide our trainings into equally long sections, pyramid trainings, graded sections, time sections or random sections. •The great benefit of interval training lies in the interruption for short-term regeneration. The human or dog therefore travels the total distance, ie the sum of all sections at a constant pace without over-acidification or overheating. If he covered the same distance at the same pace without interruption, he would exceed his physical limit at some stage. Then the pace decreases due to fatigue. Therefore, only training until the moment of fatigue is effective and beneficial. A specific example of interval training can be, for example, 5 x 1000 m or 3 x 5 minutes. In endurance disciplines, when we are preparing for long distances from the middle and beyond, the sections lengthen proportionally. However, the racing speed is usually lower than in sprints and short sections. •Another great benefit is the proven contribution to the development of short-term regeneration. Pauses between individual sections learn to use metabolism as much as possible for the most efficient regeneration. In the future, it is therefore certain that the athlete's / dog's body, which has often used interval training, will regenerate more effectively in the short term. This brings us to the topic of supercompensation and regeneration, but today's article is not about that. •A very important rule applies to the case of racing speed training using interval training. If the intensity of the section is maximum, then the section should never be longer than a few minutes and the breaks between sections should allow the body to rest for at least the same time. • Rest between sections is better to spend on the move. Many studies have shown that the body washes away lactic acid from working muscles better and releases accumulated heat during free movement. How do physiological functions improve? *„If you want to improve some physiological function in your body for example racing run pace, you got to stress that function. But you want to stress it at the least the lowest intesity than the stres it. So you want to train at that speed!“ Jack Daniels Experience The quotes above and the characteristics of the training actually hide everything we need for effective training in order to improve performance. But how is it usable for mushing? If we want to increase our speed, for example on a scooter with a dog, then according to Mr. Daniels, we must train at exactly the speed that seems to be critical in terms of physiological functions. However, this is the main stumbling block. Unfortunately, there is no proven and easy way to measure your dog's VO2max or blood lactate accumulation. There were studies that focused on this measurement, it involved frequent and unpleasant manipulation of animals, blood collection and similar tasks that none of us want to apply to our dog. Another influential factor that comes into play with your dog is the accumulation of heat and motivation to move. These last two factors in humans can be addressed relatively easily, but in dogs they are crucial. So is it possible to successfully and most effectively schedule interval training for a dog? Motivation for activity Each dog is naturally motivated for different activities. This is due to many years of breeding. Hunters love hunting game, scouts like to comb inaccessible places, and shepherds look for their herds. Why do I mention that? Not every breed loves to move and although it will pull and will certainly find pleasure in it, it will not reach the very threshold of physical tolerability in training. Regularly attacking this threshold requires considerable motivation to move. Therefore, we can identify the motivation for the move as the main aspect that will have the most fundamental impact on the potential to improve. Precisely prepared sections and a clear plan VS feeling for training and knowledge of the dog Tables, exact procedures, identified unknowns and iron regularity in the dog will not work. Even if you compile the most reliable training plan, it will always depend on how your dog wants. How much is rested and on many other variables such as temperature, humidity, etc. Therefore, we must engage our own abilities and monitor our dog. The fact that we wrote 5 x 1000 m does not mean that it will go well today. Without the ability to recognize his current motivation and status, we will reach a stage where we will blindly follow the lessons and the plan. This can either make the dog bored or it will be so challenging that his natural appetite for the move will gradually take over. Although I often avoid the phrase "common sense", in this case it is the only useful tool for effective training planning. Unfortunately, without a natural feeling for working with dogs, even common sense will not help you. Interval training YES or No. Definitely YES, but according to the characteristics of interval training, we should follow a clear plan with a specific goal. As you can read above, our dog will only be able to do so under certain conditions. Interval training definitely has many positive aspects, but without the coach's ability to work with his dog, he will never reach them. At least they can be used to streamline the current training process. Many racers use interval training mainly to prevent the dog from overheating. During the breaks between sections, the dogs let them cool in the water and then continue to the next section. It is therefore clear that the length of the sections is random according to the availability of water. However, we are already talking about interval training, which brings the mentioned advantages. Conclusion Please take a comparison of human and dog training with a reservation. Although from a physiological point of view, our bodies work practically the same, as small differences as the ability to sweat and thus cool better, radically change the possibilities of training. In the same way, the motivation for a given activity fundamentally influences the result. The man goes to training with a clear goal, the dog goes to satisfy the desire to move. Sources: • Aerobic interval training vs. continuous moderate exercise as a treatment for the metabolic syndrome - “A Pilot Study” • Efficacy of high-intensity, low-volume interval training compared to continuous aerobic training on insulin resistance, skeletal muscle structure and function in adults with metabolic syndrome: study protocol for a randomized controlled clinical trial (Intraining-MET) • The Physiological Response of Siberian Husky Dogs to Exercise: Effect of Interval Training *The citation is from the lecture p. Jacka Danielse.

Often interpreted topic. How to properly cool your dog, or how to prevent it from overheating during the race. I do not want to offer a guaranteed guide on "How to cool your dog" in the form of this article. I am aware of my partial incompetence in this regard, and therefore I will offer an overview of opinions and practical solutions not only from veterinarians, but also from the Czech top mushing. How do you even recognize playback? What can it cause? How can it be prevented? First, a dry statement of facts: Overheat symptoms Rapid breathing Greater salivation and stickiness of saliva Total apathy Vomiting In a serious case, loss of consciousness, falling on side Significant fluctuations in behavior "The critical and life-threatening temperature is 41 degrees Celsius. Dogs in musher sports often cross this border." Rob Downey Aspects that increase the tendency to overheat during exercise Dog breed (nose length, dog size, coat type, original breeding purpose) Harassing or pregnant bitch (weakened organism) Overweight (more weight ► more muscle work ► more heat) Dog age (very young dog is not adapted, very old dog loses the ability to cool down quickly and efficiently) Low or no adaptation of the organism (especially during the transition from winter to summer season) Sick dogs (weakened organism) Improper schedule of feed rations (excessive heating due to digestion of excess difficult to digest food) Previous overheating (insufficient regeneration from previous overheating, albeit only slight) Insufficient hydration (low fluids ► slower heat dissipation ► overheating) "The temperature rise in a running dog can be up to ten times faster than the temperature rise in the warmest desert in the world." Rob Downey Consequences of regular overheating during pregnancy Decreased fertility in future offspring Reducing the number of puppies in the litter Reduction of birth weight of puppies Decrease of temperature tolerances and ability of heat adaptation in born puppies How does a dog's cooling system work? Dogs do not sweat and do not have as extensive a system of sweat glands throughout the body as humans. On the contrary, their cooling system is based on the reflexive expansion of surface capillaries, which transport heat to the body surface. Here the heat is "transferred" by the flow of air. The dog uses natural airflow and low air temperature. Therefore, at high temperatures (note: for a dog, the temperature is as high as 15 degrees Celsius), it will overheat much faster than usual. Temperature is not the only bait, as is humidity. Another effective tool is the muzzle itself and the ability to produce large amounts of saliva. Accelerated breathing and salivation can dissipate large amounts of heat. Again, the size of the dog's mouth and its ability to use it for efficient heat dissipation play a role. Brachycephalic breeds (bulldog, pug, etc.) Hydration plan Water is as important for a dog as it is for a human. Due to its salivation, it uses about the same amount as a person sweating in proportion to its weight and size. For this reason, it is very important that the dog has enough water, especially during the training period. Be careful when giving fluids to dogs to keep the ingredient "Energy drinks" and do not contain large amounts of electrolytes. In humans, they have the ability to bind water and effectively hydrate the body. In a dog, electrolytes can cause diarrhea and with it acute dehydration. In large quantities, they also cause fatigue in the body. So the effect is the opposite in the final. Thermal adaptation If you thought you were protecting your dog by avoiding high temperatures, then you are next. That is, only if you intend to start in races where the temperature is expected to be higher than the average temperature during your training. With this protection against higher temperatures, you give the dog the possibility of natural adaptation. More experienced competitors know and often use this method in the form of repeated exposure to higher temperatures. Heat adaptation is a slow and gradual process, and therefore it is not possible to go out with the dog after the winter in the greatest heat at noon. Everything must be well planned, reduce the load, increase the temperature, even by just a few degrees. Runners usually adapt the body for 4-6 weeks to be absolutely sure that the body has got used to the higher temperature. It is not a good idea to keep a training diary and write down individual temperatures during training, along with many other important information. These entries will help you avoid errors in the form of large temperature jumps. Thermal adaptation in points: Adaptation to higher load loads is created independently of adaptation to physical loads. Basically, it's important to know what I'm training for. When I get used to the heat, I can't develop strength or other physical aspects and vice versa. If a good adaptation to a certain heat load is to be created, it must finally adapt to the conditions for which the organism is to be prepared. The temperature increases gradually in the first half of the process (2-3 weeks) with low physical activity, in the second half the target temperature is regularly dosed and the physical load increases. Adaptation to heat decreases with age faster than physical condition. Being overweight significantly limits the ability to adapt to heat. "Some international races directly ban water soaking of dogs and call it abuse." Conflict of views: veterinarians vs. musher practice According to the available advice of veterinarians, dogs should not cool down in a so-called shock manner. The immediate action of cold water shrinks the capillaries on the surface of the body, which can no longer effectively dissipate heat. Despite all these facts, we can see experienced fighters at musher races, soaking their dogs at the start not only in all weaknesses, but also in thicker fur and on larger muscle groups. Dogs start soaking and return to the finish line, often completely dry. Some of their dogs literally get cold at the start. They don't do it because they wouldn't know how a dog's cooling system works. They do it because it works. Based on the experience and monitoring of their dogs, they can already quite accurately estimate which dog is more prone to overheating and adapt its preparation accordingly. Opinions vary across the starting field and it depends on who is more influenced by the opinion of one party or another. Author's opinion: Veterinary practice is based on the general average and centralizes individual breeds into one group. Based on this, it issues recommendations and draws conclusions. "The dog must not be watered because it will overheat." Unfortunately, we will no longer know under what circumstances this is inappropriate and when it is desirable. In practice, it seems that dogs with a greater tendency to overheat require cooling down before exercise. This significantly reduces the body temperature, which then does not rise as high during the race as if the dog started uncooled. It is necessary to take into account that racing dogs are well adapted to cope with high temperatures and their health must be at a top level. What a race dog can do in training can be life-threatening for common dog, who guards at home behind the fence. It is also not sensible to cool the dog sharply with icy water. Water temperature also plays a significant role. Conversely, a properly soaked dog can dissipate heat more efficiently thanks to wet fur. Remember that feeling when you run with wet hair. :-) Finally, a few lines from our elite racers: "Properly timed dog cooling can fundamentally affect his performance. There are many discussions and different theories on cooling. Despite the fact that it may be a denial of physiological principles, I have tested in my twenty-year career that it is actually an alpha and omega quality result. Personally, I think this is perhaps more important than connecting a dog. So we are talking about a sprint up to about 6 km. I actually train with dogs all year round, only the intensity and volume change. But even in 30 stages I will go 7 km training. The big advantage is that I have routes around the river. And so I can dose the cooling well. Sometimes it happens to me that in the autumn, when it is around zero or in the morning just below and I reach the finish line and throw the ball into the water, the dogs disappear below the surface, so passers-by are surprised that they do not collapse or their hearts do not burst. But experience speaks for itself. Cooling is necessary even at temperatures around 0, even in on-snow races. And it's not just us here in the Czech Republic. For example, at the European Championships in Norway, when the temperature approached zero, 75% of the competitors watered their dogs. And what does overheating affect the most? I currently have 6 dogs in training and everyone reacts differently to the heat. Some slow down, which we don't want. Others run to the finish line, where the "collapse" occurs. And this must be prevented. The worst is sudden warming. It's like you're training at -5 and suddenly it's +1, but it's the same at +27 and jumping to +33. This is especially important! It is mainly associated with humidity. Dry fresh air is best, the wetter and "heavier" the air, the worse. Advice in conclusion - cool your dogs. You certainly won't spoil anything, no one has frozen me yet. :) " Michal Ženíšek (více o Michalovi zde) "We have six European sled dogs in our pack. Despite the same training system and overall living conditions, we observe differences in the individual's ability to withstand heat. But they have one thing in common, and that is the ability to go beyond their capabilities, which can be self-destructive, and the inability to teach them to work "sensibly." Our task is to keep dogs comfortable and healthy. In practice, we soak and cool the dogs before almost every training and race, depending on the ambient temperature. Ideally, we use a natural watercourse or swimming pool, where they like to go swimming themselves and are willing to climb it themselves to an air temperature of about 5 ° C, but sometimes it happens that they go to our mountain rivers to cool themselves even in the snow. . If this is not the case, we soak the dogs with towels and water barrels. There are dogs that only need watering and dogs that we have to literally "cool down". The difference between the condition of the dog after running with and without soaking is so striking that I do not doubt the correctness, although of course we know all the physiological instructions about the negatives. Ideally, our dog is still racing with wet fur. Sometimes it is necessary to cool the dogs even during winter races in the snow at sub-zero temperatures, especially when there is a sharp warming and the dogs do not have the opportunity to adapt to it. I must say that during my ten-year career in mushing, I have not encountered a health problem related to dog cooling. On the contrary, I had to treat several overheated dogs. " Veronika Navrátilová (více o Veronice zde)